|
|
|
Cosmic Odyssey
Traditional Hand Applique
These general directions are for any applique that is prepared with turn-under allowances and finished by hand. Because hand applique may draw up the background a little, cut the background fabric at least an inch larger than called for. It will be trimmed to size later.
To make a precise placement for the applique motifs, follow these directions. If background fabric is light in color, position it over the complete outline of the applique design. Lightly mark the major shapes with a pencil, or simply pin applique patches in position to the background. If you cannot see through the background fabric, tape the pattern, then the fabric, to a sunlit window or other light source and mark. Another method is to make a tracing of the complete motif. Position the tracing on top of the background fabric and place the applique patches on the background underneath the traced pattern.
Make a template for each finished shape. Place the template face up on the right side of the fabric and draw around it with a pencil, leaving room for turn-under allowances to be added. Use a yellow or white fabric-marking pencil on dark fabrics, keeping the point sharp. Cut out the fabric patches 3/16" or less outside marked lines.
Position the bottommost patch on the background square, and pin or baste in place. Thread a sharp or between needle with about 24" of thread to match the color of the patch. Some people prefer silk thread for applique. Make a small knot in the tail of the thread. Use a single strand of thread.
Use the tip of your needle to turn under the allowance about 1/4" ahead of the needle, with the marked line just barely out of sight. A wooden toothpick can also be used to sweep under the allowance. Use your nonsewing thumb to press the allowance flat. Bring the needle through the fabric from the back to the front just inside the folded edge of the applique patch. Catch just a couple of threads of the patch's folded edge with the tip of the needle.
To complete the stitch, push the needle through the background just over the fold to make a very tiny stitch that is perpendicular to the fold. The needle will travel on the back side only, with the next stitch less than 1/8" away from the first (Fig. 1).
Pull the thread firmly, but don't allow the stitches to pucker. After sewing around the patch, end with the thread on back and take 2 or 3 backstitches.
Some patches may require clipping in the turn-under allowances. Cut only where necessary and just before you come to the spot. Where you've clipped an inside corner, take stitches closer together to secure the turn under (Fig. 2). A dab of Fray Check is also helpful to keep the corner and other clipped areas from raveling.
To make a point, cut away the turn-under allowance at the tip of the point, leaving a scant 1/8". Begin stitching along the edge of the patch. Fold under the allowance along the right edge of the patch, and stitch to within 1/8" from the point. Stop and fold down the allowance across the tip (Fig. 3). Take a stitch at the point, making it slightly longer as it goes in to the background fabric. This will give the impression of a sharp point (Fig. 4). Use the needle or toothpick to sweep under the remaining allowance and continue sewing.
Remove any basting. If the background fabric shows through the appliqued patch, carefully cut away the background fabric to within 3/16" of the seam line. If it is necessary to cut across seam lines when trimming, reinforce seams with a couple of backstitches.
Turn the applique upside down on a towel and press from the back. Trim the block to the finished size plus seam allowances.
|
