|
Download the sample block PDF.
|
|
Making Camelot
Recessed Applique Basics
Judy Garden of Carrying Place, Ontario, Canada, created the spectacular quilt shown on the cover of the November 2007 issue of QN with a technique she calls recessed applique. If you're unfamiliar with hand applique techniques, make a sample block and walk through the process with Judy.
Recessed Applique Basics
Once you start stitching you will realize that recessed applique is very similar to reverse applique. In fact, whisper when you say this. It actually is reverse applique. When I taught quilting classes, my students lived in dread if they knew that one of the hearts or flowers on a block was to be reverse appliqued. And yet once they were shown how to do it they relaxed and realized that it really was no different from direct applique. It occurred to me that the actual design is "recessed" into the top layer of fabric, so I decided to change the terminology. Quilters thought they were going to learn a new technique. When the moment came that they realized they were actually doing reverse applique, they were all amazed how simple it was and how hesitant they had been to try it.
If you are unfamiliar with recessed applique, you may want to do a practice session before tackling the real project. Cut two pieces of scrap fabric, each 10" square. You'll need one for the fabric that will be on top of the recessed applique (although visually it will appear to be the background), and a contrasting focus fabric, the one that is revealed during the applique process. On the right side of the top fabric, trace the solid line of the practice design with a pencil so you can see the drawing clearly. This will give you straight lines, inside and outside corners, curves, and circles on which to practice. The light gray area is the area that will be cut away. Pin this piece of fabric right side up on top of the right side of your focus fabric.
With needle and thread, baste carefully about 1/4"from the marked line. Once this basting is done, you are ready to cut and stitch. Cut away the background fabric inside the solid marked line with a pair of small sharp scissors. You need good scissors that cut right to the tips of the blades without fraying the fabric. Leave about 1/8" turn-under allowance.
Clip the inside curves. For sharp inside angles, clip right to the edge of the marked line. For the smooth inside curves, clip just shy of the marked line. Circles that are less than an inch in diameter need only four clips. Find the crosswise and lengthwise grain of fabric on your circle. Imagine a clock and clip just shy of the line at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. The distance between the numbers on your circle lies on the bias and the fabric will turn under quite nicely without extra clips.
Thread your needle with your applique thread and knot the end of the thread. Bury the knot by bringing the needle up through the top fabric from the wrong side exactly on the marked line. Always start somewhere in the middle of a line-not in the corner or close to a clip. Hold the fabric in your left hand, with your thumb close to the point where the thread comes up through the fabric. This is where you want to start turning under the fabric. With the needle in your right hand, sweep the raw edge under so that the marked line is just out of sight.
Holding the turned-under edge securely with your left thumb, take one or two small stitches. Stitch toward yourself rather than from right to left. This allows you to see where you are going much more clearly than having to look over your thumb to see the fold.
After every two or three stitches, give the thread a gentle tug to sink the stitches into the fabric. Don't pull too tightly or the fabric will pucker or form pleats. After a while this may not be necessary as you will find the right tension in your stitch the more you sew. Continue stitching in this manner, sweeping the fabric under, holding it securely, and taking one or two stitches at a time. Catch just a thread or two of the top fabric as you bring the needle up.
When you come to the inside corner, stitch right up to where the fabric takes that 90 degree turn. Then turn your fabric, sweep the seam allowance under, and take one or two extra stitches very close together to prevent fraying.
When you come to an outer point, stitch right to the marked line and take an extra stitch to anchor the point. Then turn your fabric so that the sewing direction is toward you again and sweep the seam allowance under the point. Smooth out that seam allowance underneath using the edge of your needle. When it's lying nice and flat, give the thread a little tug to help make the point nice and sharp. Continue stitching.
Curves are just as simple. They actually want to turn since many of the curves fall on the bias grain of the fabric. When a curve becomes tighter (more circular), you need to clip the inner curve to help ease the fabric under.
Once you have stitched the design, turn your attention to the circles, keeping in mind the clock when you clip. This is the one you need to practice if you are going to make the two block patterns given in the magazine, since the scalloped edge of each block contains many circles. The more of these you do, the more proficient you will become. Suddenly those scalloped circles won't seem so intimidating.
I know by now you are anxious to start actually stitching one of the blocks. When I did Camelot I worked on the scalloped circles first, but you may want to save those for last. In any case, trace the design of the scalloped circle on your background fabric. This will help in determining where the design lies on your fabric. Each of the blocks has a different sewing order and many of the components are partially stitched off site and appliqued to the main block later.
Download the sample block pattern
If the November 2007 issue is no longer available in your local quilt shop,
order a copy online at
www.VillageQuiltShoppe.com.
|
